Wednesday, 11 June 2014

the next 59 fountains - International Invitation to Make a Wish RSVP






I had considered different 59s for this year's travels.

59 Martyrs
59 Frescoes
59 Ice creams
59 Campsites
 59 Rivers
59 Saints
59 Bridges
59 People
59 Grafitti
59 Cakes

And then I thought I should make it 60.
After all, another year has passed.

However "59" rolls off the tongue nicely and fountains move me.
They are democratic places.
Domestic, romantic, indispensable.
They serve man, woman and beast without prejudice.

This is an International Invitation- open to anyone. everyone.

Please send me your name and your wish.

 I will visit a fountain, collect its water,
throw a coin and respectfully wish your wish for you.





Monday, 2 June 2014

Fountain 48 Thuyets 24 August



This was a day of retracing my steps.

Past the pylons and nuclear power station. 
Past the idle men in the bleak cafe with cigarettes dangling from their lips.
Past the dust and dogs and tourists and traffic with an overwhelming 
sense of desolation which clung to me. 
I tried to console myself with the joyous anticipation of where I was going.
Even a large melting scoop of chocolate fondant ice cream
 didn't help with the sinking feeling.

I stopped in Thuyets to stretch my legs and to escape an estate car packed to the gills with inflatable dinghies and blonde children which sat on my tail and refused to overtake me.

I did my usual wandering about but was still out of sorts. Feeling disgruntled, disenchanted, disappointed but unable to put my finger on the reason for this black cloud, I passed through an arched opening and made my way past a few men playing boules.

 I perched myself on a low stone wall and proceeded to slice
 cheese and tomatoes for a very late lunch.
The boules players took their turns at throwing, measuring, shaking their heads. 
I received an occasional glance, a "bon appetite" and wondered if perhaps I shouldn't be
there with my opinel and blue enameled plate. 

Maybe this wasn't a park but perhaps somebody's private garden.

After a very good throw, a gentleman sauntered over and offered me a coffee.
Expecting something tepid in a plastic beaker poured from a thermos flask, 
I was surprised when he emerged from the chateau
with an elegant white cup and saucer, milk jug and pot of sugar cubes.




He introduced himself to me as the previous mairie of Thuyets.
We posed for photos while his friends called out what I guessed to be
"put your arm around her"
"kiss her cheek"

Then we said good bye.





Opposite the fountain, a man wearing only a yellow vest was on his balcony 
whistling a disjointed tune. He rattled the many bird cages hanging
amidst a jungle of pot plants. Then poured the dregs from their feeders into the road, 
refilled them with a jug and clicked their doors shut.


Sunday, 1 June 2014

Fountain 47 outside the town gate Banon 23 August



It was one of those scorching days where the lavender oil vaporizes and sits heavily
 in the air mingling with whatever else is there: dust, onions sauteing in olive oil, 
diesel from an old, flesh coloured Citroen. 

In Banon it merged with the acrid smell of melting tarmac.
Louise's sidestand sunk into the oozing black. I had to run and find a large flat stone 
to displace some of her weight before she toppled over.
Then we'd have to stand around waiting for a "big strong man" type of person to rescue us.
A fallen motorcycle has the same pitiful demeanor of a beached whale.
 

The streets were virtually empty. 
It was lunchtime and I was one of the mad dogs and Englishmen out in the midday sun.
 (and wearing my leather motorcyclist's trousers to further prove the point.)

(( Noel Coward's  "Mad Dogs and Englishmen"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2YvYiWtovM
or/and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXxL2K3_-4c ))





And then I came upon this notice.



          

One open window revealed a single room museum of rural life to be viewed
 only from this external vantage point.




Through the other window one looked into a dim and surreal world of extraordinary beasts.




 Town gate and wall.

Up a steep but firmly cobbled road 
the fountain in the niche is a welcome sight for the 
weary and long traveled.




Although now mostly ornamental, I gratefully refilled my bottle.
I leaned against the shaded wall, drank the contents and
refilled it again for the next leg of my journey.